The last stop of my winter trip to Seoul: a place that allows visitors to gain a sense of what the city might have looked like before war and economic […]
Roads are a sign of progress, both when they’re built up and when they’re taken down. Such is the story of one of Seoul’s newest (and at the same time […]
With five sprawling royal residences scattered across their capital, a shortage of palaces was something the Joseon kings had no right to complain about. In any case, their past extravagance […]
The Kingdom of Joseon was a Confucian state, and its rulers considered ancestral veneration a high priority. It should come as no surprise that royal ancestors would be enshrined, and […]
Walking deeper into the garden, I was struck by the silence and the stillness of the snow-covered scenery all around me. We were right in the heart of Seoul, one […]
Gyeongbokgung was nice, very nice indeed – in a straight-laced, straight-lined, right-angled sort of way. The neatly planned succession of gateways and courtyards strung along rigidly laid axes makes for […]
The charming brick-faced area around Myeongdong Cathedral may have had a strong European flavour, but my next stop featured some splendid examples of unmistakably Korean art and architecture.